Latest Discussions : Tools & Workshop


06:21AM | 06/26/00
Member Since: 06/25/00
1 lifetime posts
I am trying to cope an inside corner of crown molding and not being very successful. Could someone tell me the proper angles to cut the coped board. I understand it is a compound cut, and I do have a compound miter saw. Specifics of how I should have the wood in the saw would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!


04:54PM | 09/12/00
Member Since: 09/11/00
4 lifetime posts
Most of the crown I've installed in recent years has a both a "thin" and "thick" edge at the top or bottom of the moulding. I've always seen it installed with the "thick" edge on other words, you nail through the bottom thin edge to install, preferably through the underlying studs.
I've had to practice a lot over the years cutting and installing. Longer pieces usually install best with a helper.

Couple of tips:

I would use measuring rods (two pieces of stock where you measure and make a reference mark) where you can instead of tape...more accurate.

Lay the piece upside down in the miter box and cut. The saw cut across the "thick" edge should be perpendicular to the moulding. You would use a 45 degree cut for a 90 degree finish angle. Less than or more than 90 degree angles require a little more math. I usually practice on some scrap stock with my miter box until I get the right fit.

The cut section provides a coping saw guide line on which to cope a connecting joint. You just back cut deeply (usually more than a 45 degree angle) along the profile line of the trim. I usually clamp the piece down flat, face up, start at the right side of the piece (I'm right handed) and saw along the profile line holding the saw back at a 45 degree to 60 degree angle. You need to clear enough off the back for this coped piece to fit snuggly.

I would cope, not miter. It's a little more time consuming and takes practice, but makes for best fit, especially in uneven finished drywall joints.

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