12:54PM | 09/13/06
Member Since: 09/12/06
1 lifetime posts
I have GE Induction Cook top Model JP363WHT and both front burners have gone out. On October 27th, 2003 09:48 AM Bob Sterenberg send the following message:


I know many of you have the GE Induction cooktops with a “burner” (induction element) not working, typically the lower right, or largest “burner” being the one not functioning.

I have done some exhaustive research into this problem and have now fixed 2 units, one was a 36 inch Model No. P963, and the other a 30 inch Model No. P96? Both had the exact same problem. A voltage rectifier had gone bad, the part can be purchased from part No. 36MB100A-ND for $7.75 each.

This part is very easily replaced, you can do it your self if feeling brave, otherwise a friend with electronics or electrical experience should be able to do it for you.

Remember this fix is for the GE Induction 30 and 36 inch cooktops, model no. P96?

Other models or brands may have a different problem.

If you have any questions please feel free to contact me at [email protected]

Good Luck



I tried to get in touch with Bob but my e-mail is undeliverable.

Can you help me in finding out which voltage rectifier I need? In another e-mail in Vila’s web page it was mentioned the replacement of a bridge rectifier and a 20 amp fuse – are they talking about the same thing?

Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.


06:52PM | 08/08/07
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
Okay, I know it's now 2007 but I've researched this too and there's lots of good info on this here, but not in one place. I am plagarizing a variety of posts on this subject for this reason. If you have an induction cooktop from the 1990s, it uses power module part number WB27X5491 or WB27X5492 (check your parts list in the manual or for your model online, some GE and Kenmore models definitely have them), and the large burner no longer works, this could likely be your problem:

A bad voltage rectifier (Part No. 36MB100A-ND) which can be replaced with a newer one at around $10. You will probably have to order it online, you probably will not find it in a local hardware or RadioShack-type store. This is a part INSIDE the power module listed above, which is a whole assembly of many parts connected to two burners either on the right or left side of your cooktop. You have to disconnect your cooktop from the wires in your wall, take off the top (remove the upper grill screws and take off the grill and then the whole top can pop out), remove the power module (take out four screws), and take the power module apart some to find this part. Apparently, the rectifier is about 1" square and is easily replaceable with a screw driver - be sure and label the leads before removing the old one. One corner is marked with a PLUS sign as a reference. Then you put the power module back together and put it back in the cooktop. You then replace two fuses under the control panel that correspond to that power module, part numbers MDA-15 and MDA-20, which may or may not be locally available but certainly can be purchased online. You then put the top back on and hook the wires back up. If this is your problem, it should be solved with this procedure.

Apparently, most manufacturers and repair people when diagnosing this problem will tell you that you need a whole new power module when diagnosing this problem, but they don't sell them anymore, or if you can find them, they are VERY expensive. But usually the problem is this or some other small part inside the power module. There are no diagrams of how the whole power module is put together or a parts list of the pieces inside that I can find anywhere. So if you do this repair yourself you don't have any visual reference to go by.

Now let me put in the disclaimer that I have not actually performed this repair, but I have seen at least six posts from people who have successfully solved their problem with this. I have gotten as far as looking inside and seeing that the power module is much more complicated than I want to deal with, as I have no formal electrical training. But if you are comfortable with taking these kinds of things apart and putting them back together without a diagram, and don't mind the time it takes to do it, this could be an easy $10 fix to your problem.

Hope this helps! -cheryl


12:38PM | 08/21/07
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
Well, my repairman stood me up so I attempted to do the repair I outlined further up in this thread myself. I found the recifier, it is on the bottom in the right hand corner in the front near the fuses for the right module, and about 8 or so inches to the left for the left module (or so I think). I didn't have to remove the whole module to get to it, I just removed each front burner to get to the screw holding each of the two rectifiers in. And I did change all four corresponding fuses, even tho in theory you only need to change the ones to the affected burners.

It worked on the front right burner. It did not work on the back left burner. I'm not sure if I didn't hook the rectifier up correctly, if there is another recifier elsewhere in the unit I can't see, or if there is another problem. I will further update when I get a chance to explore in there more. If anyone can tell me if there is another rectifier or other issue I should be looking for, that would be great.

I bought all my parts at The part numbers are in the procedure I outlined further up this thread.

I've attached a grainy cell phone pic of the affected parts for your reference.
5662 followup to inductio


11:00AM | 08/28/07
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
I'm an idiot. There are FOUR voltage rectifiers, one for each burner. You have to take the affected burner off to see it, and it is attached to the base of the chassis/frame with a screw. So this time I replaced the correct voltage rectifier, and my rear left large burner is working again.

I've attached a picture of the recifier itself so you know what to look for. When you order the new one, it may differ slightly but it should still work.
5693 second followup to c


08:58AM | 12/08/07
Member Since: 11/07/07
2 lifetime posts
Cheryl - how were you able to get this information? I never got any info out of GE from multiple calls over 5+ years.


10:06AM | 12/08/07
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
How did I get this information?

Well, I bought my induction cooktop used and broken, and did extensive internet research on it and found that a lot of both the Kenmore model I had and certain GE models of the same vintage were having the same issues according to posts on BBs of many sites. I then pulled up the schematics of each and found they were in fact the same unit, probably manufactured in the same place, just had different brands slapped on them. Then I found the original post on the Fix-it Forum of this website of how to fix the problen here:

but it really doesn't give you enough info to do the job if you are not familiar with electronics repair, which I am not. Unfortunately the poster's email no longer works, so you can't communicate with him directly. I continued looking in the fix-it forum in several threads that pursued the same issue and pieced together most of the info I needed from there. In these threads I noted that at least ten people were able to fix their problem with this solution, so I was confident it would work.

However, as you can tell from the multiple posts in this project, even then it was trial and error for me to fix it. So I detailed my progress as I went along and took pictures so the average idiot like me, with no electrical repair experience, could do this fix. I figured considering the replacement cost of a new induction cooktop, it was certainly worth sharing a less than $15 fix with others like me who had one that could get some more usuable life out of it.

So that's how I got this info. I wouldn't count on any repair or customer service having any knowledge of how to repair this technology, since it's not that prevalent here in the US. If it breaks, you are better off trying to fix it yourself, if the part that is broken is still available.

Good luck people!


05:33PM | 12/10/07
Member Since: 11/07/07
2 lifetime posts
Thanks for your detailed response. Another question - where did you find detailed schematics for these things. The GE help line sure isn not forthcoming.

I ask, because I'm trying to gather info now to keep the new one going 10 or 15 years in the future.


05:42AM | 12/11/07
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
Okay, I'll give you links to the drawings but let me have a few disclaimers:

1)I only know that this is a known problem in both GE and Kenmore models that use burner modules WB27X5491 or WB27X5492 in them, from all the posts I've read. But I'm pretty sure that the voltage rectifier used in induction cooktops are standard for most if not all induction cooktops from the late 80's to early 90's, so I wouldn't be surprised if this was a problem in other models that used voltage rectifier Part No. 36MB100A-ND.

2) Both the GE and Kenmore schematics should be included inside your cooktop in a small envelope under your control panel of the cooktop. These are from the manufacturer and won't be any different than what is available online.

3) These schematics are the main assembly of the cooktop - the glass top, the control panel, burner modules, fuses, etc. It does not have a detailed view of inside the right and left burner modules, and you have to take those apart a bit to get to the voltage rectifier. When they built these, they assumed if something went bad in the burner module, they'd replace the whole module so there is no further detail available anywhere. So I don't know for this particular repair that the drawings will be all that helpful.

Both GE and Kenmore manuals, parts, and diagrams are available online for free. You will have to know your model number, eg. JP393, to get them.

At GE, the main page is:

Click on Parts & Accessories to get parts or schematic drawings.

Scroll down, and there's a place under Repair and Replacement Parts to put in your model number, eg JP393.

It should pull up a link to your model. Click on that.

Choose cooktop assembly, and click go.

It's going to show you a list of the parts that are still available to order. Ignore that for now, and look near the top of the page for a red link to the diagram of the COOKTOP ASSEMBLY.

It should pull up the drawing.

For Kenmore, the main support page is:

There is a place to put in your model number, eg. 911.4292990 and click go.

It should pull up your model. Click continue.

It now gives you an option to further search for a specific part, or choose between the parts list and the diagram. Choose diagram, and it will pull it up for you.

FYI, unlike GE that only lists what parts are still available to order, Sears lists ALL the parts that were originally available when it was produced. Some are no longer available, and you won't know until you try to order them.

I hope this is helpful. These websites are not especially easy to navigate to find these things, and I hear that customer service doesn't really tell people how to get there.


09:38PM | 01/05/08
Member Since: 01/04/08
1 lifetime posts
I have a GE-JP693 that was down to just one small burner on the right

hand side. The information in this thread provided the encouragement

to look into repairing one or more of the burners. I did a wholesale

replacement of the power rectifiers with multicomp part MCCM35010-RH

available for less than $3 from many sources. This did fix the large

burner on the right side but unfortunately both left units still will

not work and the small burner on the left still blows its supply fuse.

By comparing the working right hand units and the left units I was

able to identify a shorted power transistor in the left. (Attached

photo). I removed the transistor to see if I could identify the part,

but I haven't had any luck so far. The transistor had a foam pad

glued over the part ID and I wasn't able to save the part ID when

removing the pad. The glue had dissolved most of it.

If anyone knows where I can get a schematic or even a parts list for

the cook-top power units I would really appreciate it. I suspect that

it is a common part and probably not very expensive. I would hate to

spend $600+ for a replacement power unit when a $10-$20 part would


6050 partial success and


04:44AM | 01/06/08
Member Since: 08/06/07
6 lifetime posts
I have some info that might be helpful, but I'm afraid it's not good news.

When I first was researching this, back when I was considering purchasing the Kenmore cooktop used and broken, my findings from various places indicated it was one of two things: most likely the voltage recitifier, possibly also the transistor. All threads about the recitifer led to success. So I took a chance and bought it and it happened to be my problem.

There were only a few threads about the transistor issue, and none of them were successful in fixing the problem. Again, I'm not an electrician or have any electrical repair background, but it was something about the technology being outdated and those kids of transistors being replaced with a different kind of technology. I'm sorry I don't remember the names of either kinds of transistors, and I'm pretty sure the most helpful threads weren't on Bob Vila. I do know that it is very possible they don't make them any more, and that your best bet is to buy one used off another unit.

I can also tell you a single attempt with Sears customer service did not get me a parts list for the power module, and it uses the same one your GE one does. They have "part lists" for the whole model, but it lists the power module as a part, not the pieces within. You could try pursuing it with GE and Sears a few times, seeing if you get anywhere with different people helping you. Of you could check the Fix-It Forum here and see if anyone with a non-working unit is willing to sell you just the module or the transistor.

I wish I could be more helpful. If you do find a solution, do post it here because you are not the first person to discover this issue but you could be the first person to solve it.
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