12:51AM | 06/10/02
Member Since: 10/09/01
48 lifetime posts
Would appreciate any help on protecting/making stain resistant a kitchen counter top - it is currently unfinished natural Maple. Alan


05:38AM | 06/10/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1675 lifetime posts
I would get some of that clear epoxy-type coating like they use in bars and restarants. (I can't believe anyone would make a kitchen countertop of maple, which is not a very hard wood.)


12:30PM | 06/10/02
Member Since: 01/22/02
101 lifetime posts
Personally I wouldn't have a countertop made from all wood, any wood. But if I was to have to choose a wood to make a countertop out of, maple would probably be my 1st choice. Don't understand the comment that it isn't a very hard wood, there are not many domestic woods that are harder than maple, maybe ash or elm but not too many. A wood like sugar maple is very hard, even the softer maples such as silver are still pretty hard.

Mark Hammond

10:10AM | 06/11/02
Member Since: 05/09/01
246 lifetime posts
Just so we don't end up in a tiff, maple is definately listed as a hardwood, and it certainly is that. Tight grained, and excellant for projects such as countertops depending on use. Outside and under conditions that have a lot of moisture, untreated maple will fare poorly......Mark Hammond


05:30AM | 06/12/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1675 lifetime posts
I stand corrected. Happy to learn something new.
(I always thought maple was pretty soft. For example, the maple that I've cut and burned in my fireplace is lighter weight, softer, and burns quicker than some other woods such as oak. And I have a painted maple bedroom set that seems to chip and dent easliy. Oh well, I guess there's maple and then there's MAPLE.)
Good luck with your project, Alan.


09:56AM | 06/12/02
Member Since: 01/22/02
101 lifetime posts
Sorry, we sort of got off on a tangent here and never did answer your question. Maple is not a good staining wood due to its tight grain structure, will go blotchy very easily. If I was doing this counter top, I would leave the maple natural and finish it with a polyurethane, or even a spar varnish. If you do want to color it somewhat, then use boiled linseed oil followed by the clear coat.


12:36AM | 06/14/02
Member Since: 10/09/01
48 lifetime posts
I'm delighted that you guys have all agreed that Maple IS a hard wood. I was hoping for more answers to the actual question though! I've heard that mineral or vegetable oil is sometimes used, solely for stain protection, but I thought one coat of a good urathane varnish would be better. My logic is that it would be absorbed to just below the surface and not change the appearance whilst effecting a permanent seal.

Thanks for your comments.


02:05AM | 06/14/02
Member Since: 10/19/98
223 lifetime posts

Sorry none of us can give a good answer.

Take your question to the forums at

They have a forum dedicated to finishing issues and lots of experts hang out there.


06:22PM | 06/16/02
Member Since: 09/23/01
242 lifetime posts
Do Not coat the maple with a urethane finish. The expansion and contraction of the top will weaken the finish and water will work in under it causing it to eventually pop off.

Use a product such as GOOD STUFF to coat the maple top. Or mineral oil... do not use any vegetable oils.

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