Latest Discussions : Tools & Workshop


06:26PM | 02/18/07
Member Since: 04/10/03
116 lifetime posts
i need some help on this one. i dont like to install oak finished treads because i am not too happy with the way they turn out when i am done. so i cringe every time i have to do a set. i have a remodel this time so i am going to have to tear out the existing treads (2X12) and risers and install oak treads (1.062"X12) and painted risers. i am probably going to have to pad up treads 7/16" to allow for difference in tread thickness to keep first and top step same height. thats not my problem. i dont want squeaks and i dont want exposed nail or screw holes. i have ended up with both in the past.

i usually liquid nail down real good. i have shot 2" finish nails into treads, but they dont really suck them down like a screw would do. i have used trim head screws, thank goodness that set was getting a carpet runner down the middle. i am not opposed to using pocket screws, but how would i get to the treads. i guess i would have to start at the top and work my way down? but i would have to install the tread before putting on the front riser?

if i install treads tight to the skirt boards, could i be getting sqeak there. i need professional help, so Mr Hammond or alter eagle or someone, i need some input



10:38AM | 02/19/07
Member Since: 12/27/02
543 lifetime posts
Yep, been there.

The best solution I came up with was to use plugs I drilled out right from the tread stock, when you orientate the grain they actually disappear as you know. Owners should expect that to get the best tight fit possible.

I've never had a call back on the skirts and it's usually the stringers attachment and the stock movement up and down on the fastener rather than wood to wood when I've gone in to repair/upgrade like you are doing.

Really the way to do it is router out the stringers, when I was working at a stair company for a few years they have an awesome machine that cut them automatically but we still had to do the curved stairs by hand over "lobster trap" looking jigs. Then you can wedge & glue from the back and set them in...

..anyway, if you can't use plugs I'm sure we can come up with another way.

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02:04PM | 02/23/07
Member Since: 04/10/03
116 lifetime posts
i was thinking of using pocket crews through the stringer into the tread. one problem is that when i pull off 2X12 (1.5") thickness and put on new oak treads (1.062") thickness, it is going to change top step and bottom step 7/16's in height in opposite directions. so if i pad all treads up treads 7/16's to equal out top and bottom step, then really, all i am pocket screwing into from underneath is the 7/16's shim and not so much the stringer itself.

so if i use pocket screws, i could not really shim up treads, leaving top and bottom step 1.125" different from each other. there is no code here,but 30 miles south, that wouldnt work.


02:06PM | 02/23/07
Member Since: 04/10/03
116 lifetime posts
it would not leave top and bottom tread 1.125" difference, but instead .875" difference


10:57PM | 07/17/17
Im curious on a Brand comparison protecting, finishing and durability of new raw oak unfinished stair treads, is the shellac brand better now than the minwax brand , i m not finding recent or current comparisons, i believe that i noticed Bob, when he and his wife did their stairs used Shellac brand, im a first time homeowner never stained or sealed anything, and have 14 beautiful oak treads to protect before they start installation of my entry stairs, nervious about doing this and will also stain to match landing porcelean wood look of a whitewahed walnut, any and all input welcome here please

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