07:21PM | 12/19/13
Hey, I just read this thread because I'm in the same boat. Old stove decided to retire in the middle of making tea, and I ordered a new stovetop not really knowing much about it. So, in the end I should have done more research because I ended up with a stove asking for a 40Amp circuit but I only have a 30 amp circuit. I think what I'm going to do is what a few people suggested, just try to hook it up on the 30 amp circuit, knowing that the breaker will trip if it draws too much. Funds are kind of tight right now and since I don't believe this to be an immediate safety issue as long as i don't swap the breaker without swapping the wire I think that will be okay. That said, after the holidays I will probably have someone rerun the wire when I can afford it.


11:17AM | 01/01/14
That's not a good choice, putting a 40A load on a 30A circuit. If you are going to be regularly taxing the capacity of the circuit you are going to be relying on the protective device over and over and over to save you. Theoretically, you should be ok but things fail. You will be putting continued heat stress on the wiring insulation, that will start to break down over time. Breakers fail or don't respond as quickly as you'd like.

NEC says that your protective devices need to match the 'weakest' part of a circuit, I don't know if it mentions about putting on a known load that exceeds the capacity of the weakest part of a circuit, irrespective of the rating of the protective device.


12:35PM | 03/06/14
Always use wire to match the breaker and vice-versa. HOWEVER Read your EXACT model's electrical requirements. Depending on your manufacturer, they will probably state 40 Amps for all models (because they are lazy to address them all individually and for liability purposes). When a house fire occurs because you used a 40 Amp service into a device that only needs 16 Amps (such as my wall oven model), the liability is on the manufacturer that told you to use a circuit over twice what it should be.


07:40AM | 07/18/14
Number 8 awg for 40 amps


08:43AM | 07/19/14


12:49PM | 07/23/14
ha. It may be old an old thread but I just found I have this problem this week! The existing circuit is 30 amps. It used to be just a range top. Then wifey decided she wanted gas on top and electric oven below. The book says to use 40/50 amp circuit. I am suspicious that this requirement is put in there for all models not necessarily this one. Because the original wiring (must have been code, house is 20 yrs old) for the electric wall oven is 30 amps. So why isn't the existing 30 amp circuit good enough for the new oven, if the wall oven runs on 30 amps? Remember the new range top is gas.


01:20PM | 07/23/14
OOPS. I just checked by box. The stove is supplied with 30 amp on 10 gauge. The wall oven is on a 40 amp breaker. So I guess an new oven is gonna need a 40 amp with an 8 gauge.


12:16PM | 11/20/14
The length of the run has a lot to do with the required gauge wire. unless the breaker panel is on the other side of the wall from the range i would never run 10 gauge on a 40 amp breaker, it's just asking for a fire. i can't think of the last time i used more than 2 burners on my stove so i doubt you would ever need more than 30 amps. if i were in your shoes i would hook it up and start turning on burners to see when the breaker pops. if you can run the oven and two top burners i think you would be good for any practical use of the stove.


10:58AM | 11/29/14
10 gauge is will not work for a range don't do it most stoves can draw up to 50 Amps ! if that happens your wire in the walls will turn red like them burners on that stove !!!!
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