10:09AM | 03/08/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
I spent the weekend sanding my oak "parkay" flooring and I am ready to put the poly urethane on it now.....

I have a friend who refinished his hardwood floors and they look great. I dont like the yellowing that happens when applied and over time though. My friend has said to not use the fast drying stuff because it "sucks". I want a CLEAR NON-YELLOWING finish that looks good and is durable. From what I have read...this will require a water-based finish to prevent yellowing. The water based poly is also fast drying which I have been told is not as good.

Will i have to seal the floor first before applying poly? The floors formerly had a dark stain applied and I sanded the crap out of the floors to remove all of the stain and now they look light and bright. Can someone tell me if i will have to seal first? and what i can use to get a crystal clear and durable finish (this is the foyer floor that will get lots of traffic).....i really love the way the floors look "as-is" after sanding and i would like to preserve the natural oak look as closely as possible without sacrificing durability.....


08:42AM | 03/09/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
what? no replies?

does anyone know?


02:22PM | 03/09/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
693 lifetime posts
Unfortunately the best poly for floor use is oil based poly, which means you are going to get a bit of a golden hue no matter what.

Water based poly is not durable enough for floors and is designed for use on furniture.

The best course of action remains oil based poly.

Oil based poly needs to be applied in 3-4 thinned coats.

All coats of poly are applied with a lambs wool applicator.

The first coat or 'spit coat' is done with a 3:1 mixture of thinner to polyurethane. This extremely thin coat allows the poly to penetrate into the wood rather than dry upon it.

Once dry, the coat is 'screened' using very fine sanding screens just enough to remove any trapped dust and small bubbles. the floor can then be vaccumed and lightly damp mopped to remove any debris.

The second coat is applied but this time a bit thicker using a 2:1 ratio of thinner to polyurethane. Once dry, the floor is again screened vaccumed and damp mopped.

The 3rd coat will be a 1:1 mix of 1 part thinner and 1 part polyurethane. Screen, vaccum and mop when dry.

4th and subsequent coats are full strength polyurethane with no final screening.


10:48AM | 03/12/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
Not to dispute your claims but, in the stores i went to (Lowe$, H0me Dep0t, Sherwin Wiliams), they have just as many water based products as they do oil based and they are all on the same shelf as the oil based and they all claim to be for FLOORS are all of the stores falsely marketing these products? they do also have water based products for furniture in a different location and in different packaging...

i want a finish that is durable and will last at least a year or two before requiring any maintenance and the way i read the cans of the water based product, that is what i "should" get with using the water based and i should not get the yellowing associated with oil based. I do understand that the water based poly is not as durable as the oil based and I am ok with recoating every other year or so as long as i dont get the yellowing and i get a finish that looks good and doesnt require a recoat for a year or two. Has anyone tried the water based floor poly??? What were the results if you did?


06:43PM | 03/13/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
693 lifetime posts
.."so are all these stores falesley marketing these products?..."



A retailer LYING...?

Can it be so????

Of course it can and is.

Retailers, like politicians, only say what they want you to believe.

NEVER use a water based poly on any floor.



08:58PM | 03/13/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
i went ahead and got the oil based......


07:06PM | 03/16/04
Member Since: 03/15/04
28 lifetime posts
Homebuild, I agee with most of your posts I've read, but let's be careful with going straight at the retailers. I think what Koshal was saying is that the container of Poly says it's for floors, so the retailers are not the ones to blame here. They put it on the shelves, but the manufacturer makes the labels.


08:36AM | 03/17/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
I went ahead with the oil based poly and it looks good. It does not have as light and NON-YELLOW of a finish as I would have liked but, it is acceptable. Thanks for the help/advice guys!!


05:15PM | 03/18/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
693 lifetime posts
Ok, I'm sorry floorguyforyears...

My post should have read:



Retailers AND manufacturers LYING about their products?



11:48AM | 03/19/04
Member Since: 03/07/04
6 lifetime posts
I have put 4 coats of oil based poly on the floor and it seems that the poly is NOT filling in the cracks between pieces of wood where the tongue-in-groove pieces are joined....

i was under the impression that there should be a solid barrier of poly over the entire surface filling in the cracks and this not correct?

this flooring is parque (parkay??) with little 6" or so squares with about 7 or 8 slats of wood in each square and its all tongue-in-groove...
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