I want to put some wood shelves in each end of my closet. 28" wide and about 24" deep. Our house has metal studs and not always in the places you need them. I want to set storage boxes containing paperwork from previous years on these shelves so these shelves will have to hold a good amount of weight. I don't know how to attach the shelves to the walls and not have them fall down because of the weight. Help!
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Hi, just an opinion here. I really don't like this idea. If it were mine, I would buy file cabinets and put them ON THE FLOOR.
If they MUST be elevated, I'd figure out a way to have supports in both front and back...good luck.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
If they MUST be elevated, I'd figure out a way to have supports in both front and back...good luck.
Regards,
-k2 in CO
Moderator, Miscellaneous Forum
http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Miscellaneous
How fancy do you want the shelving to be?
4 1 x 4 pine stack them together and cut lap joint on the edge where you want your shelf to go say 13 inches apart next stack all the shelves together stand the on end and cut a lap joint the thickness of the 1 x 4 now you have
I cut out four sets of shelves like that in an hour for storage in a shed.
1 x 4 horizontal in between the vertical 1 x4 legs in the back to take the play out of the unit. It took hour or so to put it together.
Jack
4 1 x 4 pine stack them together and cut lap joint on the edge where you want your shelf to go say 13 inches apart next stack all the shelves together stand the on end and cut a lap joint the thickness of the 1 x 4 now you have
I cut out four sets of shelves like that in an hour for storage in a shed.
1 x 4 horizontal in between the vertical 1 x4 legs in the back to take the play out of the unit. It took hour or so to put it together.
Jack
As I see your needs, you do not want to use the floor space for a cabinet, because it would take away clothes storage.
So if you still want to build those shelves, it can be done.
A 1 X 4 screwed through the drywall & into the steel studs will normally support your shelf on two walls. Use the fine thread drywall screws intended for steel studs & be careful to avoid stripping the screws.
Two screws per stud would be advised. Liquid nails under each 1 X 4 will make the shelf support very secure.
Now for the unsupported corner of the shelf:
In the past I have resorted to supporting a shelf like that from the ceiling via a threaded rod.
I used a 3/8 hanger bolt to suspend the 3/8" threaded rod.
A hanger bolt is a double-ended bolt with machine threads on one end (takes a nut) and wood threads on the other end. http://www.coburnmyers.com/pdfs/screws/hanger-screws.pdf The hanger bolt must be screwed into a ceiling joist. Predrill the joist to avoid splitting it.
A single 3/8" hanger bolt will support me & I weigh 220lb.
To connect the threaded rod to the hanger bolt, use a coupler nut.
A sleeve made from copper or pvc pipe will hide the rod if desired.
The threaded rod, of course, penetrates the shelf & a nut & washer is placed under the shelf.
The only complication is that the joist may be wrongly positioned for your needs.
If you have access to the attic, creating a support for the threaded rod should be a piece of cake.
If there is no easy access to the attic, lag bolt a 1 X 4 into two joists. The threaded rod will hang from the 1 X 4.
Do not counter-bore the 1 X 4 as it will be too weak to support its load. Instead, drill a relief space into the drywall for the washer & nut.
Depending upon the quantity of file boxes needing a home, using ¾" plywood shelving may not be adequate. Consider laminating two layers of plywood, so that sagging is minimized. Edge the laminated shelf with a 1 X 2 for appearance.
So if you still want to build those shelves, it can be done.
A 1 X 4 screwed through the drywall & into the steel studs will normally support your shelf on two walls. Use the fine thread drywall screws intended for steel studs & be careful to avoid stripping the screws.
Two screws per stud would be advised. Liquid nails under each 1 X 4 will make the shelf support very secure.
Now for the unsupported corner of the shelf:
In the past I have resorted to supporting a shelf like that from the ceiling via a threaded rod.
I used a 3/8 hanger bolt to suspend the 3/8" threaded rod.
A hanger bolt is a double-ended bolt with machine threads on one end (takes a nut) and wood threads on the other end. http://www.coburnmyers.com/pdfs/screws/hanger-screws.pdf The hanger bolt must be screwed into a ceiling joist. Predrill the joist to avoid splitting it.
A single 3/8" hanger bolt will support me & I weigh 220lb.
To connect the threaded rod to the hanger bolt, use a coupler nut.
A sleeve made from copper or pvc pipe will hide the rod if desired.
The threaded rod, of course, penetrates the shelf & a nut & washer is placed under the shelf.
The only complication is that the joist may be wrongly positioned for your needs.
If you have access to the attic, creating a support for the threaded rod should be a piece of cake.
If there is no easy access to the attic, lag bolt a 1 X 4 into two joists. The threaded rod will hang from the 1 X 4.
Do not counter-bore the 1 X 4 as it will be too weak to support its load. Instead, drill a relief space into the drywall for the washer & nut.
Depending upon the quantity of file boxes needing a home, using ¾" plywood shelving may not be adequate. Consider laminating two layers of plywood, so that sagging is minimized. Edge the laminated shelf with a 1 X 2 for appearance.
