Latest Discussions : Roofing & Siding

dodgeroof

05:09AM | 04/12/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
Whatever you do, don't rely on one guy's word or recomendation.

Also keep in mind that most roofers DO NOT repair leaks, in part because they don't

know how to. Sounds weird I know....but in 24 years, I've learned many things about "roofers".

1. The greater percentage of "roofers" out there don't know the correct procedures for installing Roofs.

2. Most "roofers" out there don't know the first thing about permanently fixing leaks.

These are just facts as far as I'm concerned, based on inspecting thousands of roofs, and repairing hundreds over the years...and, having talked with hundreds of homeowners who tell me the "same" stories, over and over.

As for your leak, there are some occasions where I've seen a leak that just couldn't be fixed without reroofing at least the area where it was occuring, due to either the heer massive deterioration of the roof covering, or because of the large complexity of the leaking area involved, etc.

But again, one thing many, in fact most roofers tend to say is "you need a new roof"

regardless of the real truth of the matter.

Spend some serious time weeding out roofers till you find one who does BOTH roof installations AND permanent roof repairs.

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

05:26PM | 04/12/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
thanks for your input.

rj8283

06:28PM | 04/14/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
I'm not sure if you can determine cost by me providing you the square feet of my home but, my house is 1509 sq. ft. Today I was quoted $4400 to repair the leak and roof just the entire front side of the house and $6100 for the entire house. Does this sound right? Can you determine by the information provided?

dodgeroof

02:55AM | 04/15/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
The square footage of the structure will be smaller than the "squares" required to roof it.

1 "square" = 100 sq. ft. of roofing needed.

The way estimates are figured out is take the actual suare footage of the roof, add a 10% waste factor, then the the linear footage of hip and ridge caps.

What you'd want to find out is how many "squares" does a roofer base their estimate on.

And keep in mind that even on a single story, the house square footage can be anywhere from 30% to 50% SMALLER the the roof footage...OR "SQUARES" required. This is because of the overhangs, the roof being pitched {therefore a larger plane than horizontal}, and any hips which tend to require more waste.

If you give me the number of roof "SQUARES", the type of underlayment {such as felt, ice&water, etc.} used, the type of shingle used {need the exact nanme and manufacturer's warranty period for THAT specific shingle}.....and how many layers have to be stripped off {if they do}.....

I could tell you if I think it's reasonable. Keep in mind that although the materials don't vary much from one part of the country to another, labor does. But I think I could still give you my OPINION on it.

Main thing is I need as much detail as you've been provided by the roofer in order to give any kind of valid opinion.

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

07:41AM | 04/23/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
I had another contractor come by today. He told me 23 squares, $5500. This also included a Bitumen Roofing Membrane over the rear awning over the patio, $1050. He said this awning was very flat and there is some wood damage. Also, includes Ice Shield $250, Ridge vent (2 peaks) $556 and roof louvers. Timberline (GAF) http://www.gaf.com/General/GafMain.asp?Silo=RES1&WS=GAF, Roof Deck Protection, Leak Barrier and Attic Ventilation. 5 year labor warranty, 30 year manufacturer. 2 layers of Removal included. He said there is 4'x 8' plywood damage evident by softness on the roof and would have to replace at less 20 sheets or more at $70 each.

Complete cleanup, no dumpster used. total: $7356.00

Please let me know what you think.

dodgeroof

03:42PM | 04/23/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
In my area, per square:

30 year dimensionls-------------$117

felting 30lb.----------------- 20

tear off 1st layer-------------- 40

tear off second layer----------- 30

total per square,

for shingled areas--------------$207

redecking, using 1/2 CDX

per square {3 sheets per}-------$150

so, 20 shts = about 6.66 squares,

or total of -------------------1,000

roof total, not taking into

account ridge venting,

ice&water, louvers, or

rear patio flat roof area------$4,761

total to date for redeck,

and shingled areas-------------$5,761

so, in addition, there's the extra charge

for the Ice&water, which you've said he said would be $250, and the ridge vent work @ $556

which together add $806...

so now we're up to $6,567.

His price, so far, is $789 higher than what we might charge in our area....except that:

We charge more per square for flat roof work than shingled roof work. Without knowing what percentage of your total squares are patio flat roof related, I can't go beyond the current estimation. But I'll assume for now that your porch is the 6.66 Squares he said needs redcking. I would charge at least $100 more square for the flat work than what I'd charge for the shingled work...bringing the total to $7,233

However...We don't charge as much for redecking as he does, so unltimately the total price would be more like $6,820-6,850.

The above is just a guestimate, based on what you've told me and a couple of assumptions on my part.

Since there is only a difference of $506 between my guestimate price of $6,850 and his real price of $7,356....I'd say there's nothing unreasonable sounding about his price, given what he's offering to do for it.

____________________________________________

Labor DOES vary in different parts of the

country.

______________________________________________

And, it's common to find rear porchs and patios which leaked, causing rot, due to the fact they were shingled over a to-low of a pitch for shingles.

A roof CAN be your friend

dodgeroof

03:48PM | 04/23/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
I forgot to mention that this contractor you mentioned sounds like he/she might have really thought out your roof requirements and has taken all things into consideration....which MAY indicate that he/she's a good one to consider.

To many times "roofers" just aim to get the job...or ANY job, by just blurting out some price they believe will get them some work, regardless of what your specific roof layout may require in order to provide you with maintenance-free, long-lasting protection.

Still, check this contractor out with references, etc.

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

04:01PM | 04/23/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
So what do you think about the roofing materials

Timberline (GAF) http://www.gaf.com/General/GafMain.asp?Silo=RES1&WS=GAF?

dodgeroof

06:41AM | 04/24/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
I think those are fine materials. I think most of the roof shingle manufacturers are fairly equal in quality.

The one problem I've seen is with certain dimensional shingles sometimes cracking premnaturely. I'd mention the name, but I don't want to make a declaritive statement, which someone could claim has harmed them or their reputation.

But, I'll say that so far, I think GAF, Owens Corning, Elk, and Certainteed all make good products.

And stay away from thge darkest colors if you can. They do seem to generally have more problems with longevity.

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

07:52AM | 05/21/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
I decided to go with Alure Home Improvements (http://www.alure.com). They were a bit more then all of he contractors but I like their pitch and they installed my siding a couple of years ago. There total cost is $6,600. Please take a look and comment. Thanks

*105 LF - Supply and install leak barrier (rain & ice shield) to prevent leaks from ice damage and to provide a water tight seal to valleys, gutter line and around chimneys and vent pipes.

*1 EA - Install new Pipe flashing boot over existing waste pipe, in 2”-4”.

*66 LF - Install Certainteed Landmark shadow ridge caps

*700 SF – Supply and install Certainteed Landmark series 30 year architectural shingles on a walkable roof surface.

*1400 SF - Supply and install Certainteed Landmark series 30 year architectural shingles on a non-walkable roof surface.

*1 EA – Contractor to remove all related roofing material debris from job site 10

*1 NC – the following roofing system to be installed by Alure Home Improvement. A certainteed factory trained 5 star roofing contractors. All Alures roofers are certainteed master shingle applicators.

*1400 SF – Remove existing roof shingles two layers (non-walkable)

*700 SF – Remove existing roof shingles two layers (walkable)

*1 NC – Remove damaged/rotted roof sheathing and replace with new CDX plywood – up to (3) 4’ X 8’ boards as necessary to the project. Additional boards will be $63.00 per board.

*1 NC – All nails to be removed with magnetic broom

*1 NC – Property to be raked and cleaned throughout the job

*1 NC – Tarps to be used during removal to protect landscaping

*1 EA – Supply and install pre cut starter course at roof edge t seal first row

*1800 SF – Certainteed roofer’s select high performance underlayment an alternative to felt underlayments.

dodgeroof

04:38PM | 05/21/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
What they've written looks fine.

Some additions we always include are:

1.Remove all nails/staples

2.Install ALL NEW pipe jacks, step flashings, gable edge flashings, drip edge flashings if needed, valley liners, vally steel, horizotal wall flashings, roof vents, and all additional flashings as needed.

What those guys described is still a more thorough description than many of the roofer's estimates I've seen over the years.

Even many of the more "informative" estimates I've seen are nothing more than a list of items with check boxes next to each item. Some of the boxes are checked off if the roofer has decided to "offer" them.

As I wrote in 1. and 2. we pull the remaining nails out...not simply beat them down and bend them over, and usually every single flashing is replaced with new. In the end however, it all comes down to the competecy, honesty, and intentional/deliberate aplication of the various roof "components" in a workmanlike fashion, which meets or exceeds the manufacturer's & local building code authority's specs/requirements.

As long as you've decided that the initial bottom line is no more important than the ultimate result...and you feel relatively confident in the contractor's intentions and abilities, I think you've got a great chance for a successful roof installation.

In the end, one's gut feeling may indicate as much truth as anything else.

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

10:43AM | 05/23/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
Thanks for your response. Last question..

I have a chimney that I'd like to dress up. It's not used and I just want it to look nice once the roof is complete. What options to I have besides siding it?

dodgeroof

04:19PM | 05/23/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
What kind of chimey is it?

A roof CAN be your friend

rj8283

05:17PM | 05/23/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
I'm not sure. It was in place for the oil burner which has since been relocated.

rj8283

07:08AM | 05/27/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
masonry chimney

rj8283

02:18PM | 05/27/05
Member Since: 01/07/03
48 lifetime posts
Sorry, it's not a masonry chimney but rather a cover. I learned today that the cover can be painted and the rusty cap can be replaced with a stainless steel cap. I had someone come by and give me an estimate today. There are two estimates. I think both are high. Please let me know what you think.

Cost = $325 + tax (chimney not in use)

* Remove rusted chimney cap

* Install 1 - 18x18 stainless steel chimney cap w/ animal guard

* Paint existing chimney cover

Cost = $275 + tax (chimney in use)

* Paint flashing and chimney stack

* Install 1 - class A stainless steel chimney cap w/ animal guard

* Sweep boiler chimney flo and vac out smoke pipe.

dodgeroof

05:14PM | 05/27/05
Member Since: 03/27/05
95 lifetime posts
Not seeing it, I can't say what I think, except that anytime you're able to find a competent person willing to work with older "stuff"....in an effort to refurbish the "stuff", it just comes down to whether it's ultimately worth it to YOU.

It doesn't sound unreasonable to me...for what you're describing. It's not exactly a straightfoward kind of work which might otherwise have a sort of 'market rate' to it.

sorry to give you a 'politician's' answer....

A roof CAN be your friend


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