The only things I could find at my Home Depot:
1. An "installation" kit by Fluidmaster, which I think not only included the flange, but all hardware and the supply-line plumbing (flexible braided water line and shutoff).
2. A brass flange, with not even a set of instructions. It apparently would screw into the floor in place of the old one...?
It's too bad that someone doesn't make a repair kit. I somehow picture a thin steel plate, with the same openings as the flange, that could sit on top of the original. (Actually, this could be attached to the plastic flange with a handful of small screws.) Then, likely, some kind of large washer to put under the head of the bolt, in order to spread the load out over more of the flange.
-= N =-
I wonder if any other stores locally would carry this spanner. Probably need to find a plumbing supply store, since the big box stores likely won't carry it.
Also noticed on that same page you pointed to, directly beneath the spanner flange is the brass flange that Home Depot sells. I don't know if it's possible to somehow remove this old flange, and put the new brass one in place. (Not sure how it would line up with the pipe, in other words.)
Won't be an easy job either way!
Thanks for the lead,
-= N =-
[This message has been edited by Rudy64 (edited October 19, 2002).]
If they're brass, it shouldn't be too bad.
I did go to Lowe's (Home Depot was useless, as always) to look at options. They did sell a "spanner flange" to put underneath this flange. But on the next aisle over, they had a large selection of new flanges. From looking at the options they had, some of the flanges cement onto the outside of drain pipe.
Went back up to look at the flange again, and there is a small gap in there where I see what looks like PVC cement oozing out. Removing this flange, without major surgery to the wall and/or ceiling (where I'd actually have to splice in a new section of 3" PVC pipe), does not seem possible.
What I CAN do now, though, is pry up underneath the flange. There is enough play in the PVC pipe in the wall below where I can pull up the flange enough to get the repair spanner flange underneath it. I have no doubt the spanner flange will work well, as it will be supporting the bolt from underneath, where the original flange is still solid. Since these bolts can't be tightened all that much without cracking the porcelain, it should work well.
I think we're past the worst of it now, though. I'll report back after I attempt my repair!
-= N =-
Once I discovered I could remove, I decided to pry on the flange to see if it would move. Fortunately, there was enough "give" in the pipe that I could pry it up by a good half inch. This gave me enough room to slip the flange spanner underneath. (This repair part had two screw tabs on the outside radius--a trip to the cutoff wheel took care of those!) The flange spanner is now acting as a large washer, and holding the bolt just fine!
With that out of the way, I took the toilet bowl and tank outside. Got out the power washer, and cleaned the bowl until it looked like new. Then I did the tank. Inside, outside...then turned it over to clean the bottom. Whereupon I noticed the tank was cracked, likely when the previous owner over (or the builder) overtightened the bolts to the bowl. The crack was blue, and this explains where all that water was seeping from for all those years! (It was odd--the floor behind the toilet never felt wet, but the blue gunk kept accumulating.)
So, it was back to Home Depot to return a bagful of repair parts, and off to Lowe's to buy a Bold New Look Of Kohler "Wellworth" toilet. After all this fussing around, it took me all of a half hour to plop the new toilet onto its new seal, bolt it down, attach the tank and water supply, and give it a test run. Aside from needing a new supply line (bought a nice braided line with rubber gaskets), it works great! This Wellworth came well recommended for about ~$100, and it seems to flush better than some I've seen.
So, rather than the rubber rotting out on the old toilet, it was a nearly invisible hairline crack causing the leak. If anyone's in the southeast Michigan area wants a free, cleaned-up Mansfield No. 15 toilet bowl with a cracked (repairable?) tank, come and get it!
Thanks, all, for the help!
-= N =-
can anyone help me proceed with steps on completing this project, or should I call a plumber? Just to let you know, a friend of mind would complete this job for $150.00. is this a rip off???