Latest Discussions : Flooring & Stairs


04:34AM | 02/17/02
Member Since: 07/15/01
13 lifetime posts

I am thinking of adding Vinyl tiles to floor of kitchen and adjoining room (also high traffic). The existing Linoleum sheet flooring is in good condition, but it is very dark and I want to lighten up
the room.

The sheet lies over hardwood in kitchen and concrete in other room.

1. Should I go right over the sheet or rip
it out first? Pros/Cons?

2. Checked out vinyl tiles at Home Depot
that come with pre-applied adhesive on
the back. One needs to simply take off
protective paper covering and press on
floor to install. Seem to be very
convenient and clean but are these tiles
any good?

Any other tips?



11:38AM | 02/17/02
Member Since: 07/15/01
13 lifetime posts
To clarify further:

We are looking to vinyl because it is much cheaper (<$1/sq ft with zero installation because we cud do it ourselves), compared to wood ($5/sq ft) or ceramic tile ($8/sq ft). However, how durable is it?

Existing linoleum sheet is probably 20-30 years old. is it likely to have asbestos in it?

Any other thoughts?


03:57AM | 02/18/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1674 lifetime posts
Several years ago I installed self-sticking vinyl squares in 2 small bathrooms. They looked good for a few years, then began to separate here and there.
It may be that they've improved since then, but I know that it only takes one "bad" tile to make the whole floor look bad. I'd advise sheet vinyl over squares. It's harder to install, but the difference is worth it.


01:42PM | 02/18/02
Member Since: 11/16/01
301 lifetime posts
Dear Hash,
Tear the vinyl out first. If it is not completely glued to the subfloor, you'll get a movement on the new tile. Stay away from the self-stick tiles. They simply just don't last. You can get a nice looking commercial grade resilient tile for around .70 cents per square foot. Use the recommended adhesive and follow the directions. This stuff will last 20 years in a residential envoirnment.

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